And the Crack Came Back the Very next Day...

I forgot to mention in the last post some of the interesting things we discovered while inspecting the front door. When measuring for the opening, we removed some of the vinyl siding around the door. The next-door-neighbor was correct when she said that the house used to be a tan/peachish stucco house. Of course that is after it was a brick house, but before it was a vinyl-sided house. It looks like I might as well stay with the vinyl, since the brick would take some effort to restore. Maybe the stucco isn't that bad, but I would be a little hesitant to pull off the siding and find something massively unpleasant. So for the time being, the house will be vinyl.

Another interesting thing is that the door was arched. I am not sure if the original door was arched, but the opening most certainly was. You can see this from the weird-looking header in the picture of the door. Under the vinyl siding, you can see see it even better, but a picture really isn't possible. Here is what I think the door used to look like.



Well, not quite, but I am guessing that the top bricks were arched like that. Since the porch was added on later, an arched doorway would no longer be possible. Or at least it wouldn't really be seen anymore. What a shame!

I also mentioned in the last post that the bedroom was finished. Where are the pictures you ask? Well, it is a little dirty right now, but I will post pictures of it at a later date.

Finally, before the dining room could be started I needed to determine what should be done with the wood burning stove. You might remember that it had a 90 degree bend in the pipes (my apologies to Lance, as this was the only "before" picture I have that shows the bend in the pipes).

Well, it turns out that some chimney sweeps not only clean chimneys, but also fix stoves, fireplaces, and pipes. So I called a local chimney sweep and he said that the 90 degree angle was probably there because of where the rafters lay in the attic. He also said that the stove would need at least 16 inches of non-combustible materials in front of it. You can see from the previous picture, that this is not even remotely the case. You can also see that if I were to extend the bricks further out in the room, not only would the new floor need to be cut, but it would extend into the doorway as well. He suggested that maybe I purchase a new wood burning stove (in the spring when the deals are better), and it could be connected to the existing pipe. A new stove would be smaller, more efficient, and the pipe usually comes from the top of the stove instead of from the back. Even still, I would need to extend the non-combustible surface further out, to prevent starting a fire on the floor. If I were to completely remove the existing stove and replace it with nothing, I would have to patch a hole in the ceiling and the roof, and a weird brick area would remain in the dining room. Removing the bricks would most likely be out of the question, since the wainscoat cannot be matched without some custom work and the floors would need to be fixed.

Here are the pros of each option.

The pros of replacing the old wood burning stove with a new stove:

• Efficient heating method for house


• Smaller design


• Help house resale

The pros of just removing the old stove and leaving things as they are:

• Cheapest option


• Non-combustible materials do not have to extend further in the room


• Place to put plants

Because I shamelessly enjoy putting polls on my blog, I would like visitor's opinions on whether or not I should remove the wood burning stove all together or if I should get a new stove and extend the brick. Voting is in the side bar again.

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Now to explain the title. The last two days we have had nothing but rain. This morning when I glanced over at the living room wall, I realized that there was a weird shadow there. On closer inspection, I found that the Krack Kote has swelled and formed a bubble.



This area has been repaired twice before. Why is is still coming back? Well the first time we repaired it, the joint compound cracked. The second time we repaired it, we used Krack Kote over joint compound (the Krack Kote label DID say that it can be used over joint compound). We felt like maybe we should have primed the surface first, but tried it anyway. It seem to hold pretty well. However, this time it appeared that one of two things have happened;

A. Water has somehow gotten into the house during this rain storm and has caused the joint compound to swell. This caused the bubble in the Krack Kote.

or

B. The humidity has caused the joint compound to swell and in turn, the Krack Kote to bubble.

Brice went into the attic today and could not find any leaks or dampness from the rain. The roof is still in very good shape and it would be unusual to find a leak. However a leak from the side cannot be ruled out. Last weekend Brice and I set to work cleaning the yard, house, and gutters. Perhaps a gutter is still blocked and water is backing up into a crack. Or perhaps water from the hose leaked through some crack in the roof or siding.

The other option is just swelling from humidity. This is possible, but I found a new and smallish crack in the ceiling above the bubbling in the Krack Kote and it is slightly darker then the surrounding ceiling. This makes me think that it is slightly damp and leans me towards option A.

Either way, there is a problem. I think that the best way to fix the problem would be to wait until things have dried out, remove the old Krack Kote, prime the surface thoroughly, and reapply the Krack Kote. Although there is bubbling, the Krack Kote has done what it promises, and that is NOT CRACK! I am very happy with the product at this time and will continue to use it on all my plaster (and occasionally drywall) walls.

Tidying Up

This week we are preparing for my parent's visit. They have volunteered to come up and stay (in the house!) and help us complete some projects. We have decided that we must at least finish the first half of the house before they arrive. This means getting everything ready to be primed, painted, and refinished in the largest area of the house. All new cracks had to be repaired, trim striped and prepared, and all the little projects that remain.

Here is a picture of Brice repairing the new crack that opened up in the living room. I forgot to get an after picture, but trust me, it looks much better than that.



When we first came into the house, I noticed that there were little tracks all around in the dust. What kind of bug made these?



After a lot of work, I think we are just about ready to move into the bathroom and kitchen! And that bathroom is going to be a lot of work...

This is the House that Joint Compound Built

The house is moving rapidly along, and I dare say that we are almost finished with the first half...However, as I was scouring over our previous work, I found that some new cracks had appeared in the plaster! Fortunately for us, the "new" cracks were an assortment of cracks that were either not repaired very well or were along one wall in particular that we had done some heavy hammering on to put in the baseboards. It seems like a nail gun would be helpful to avoid the constant pounding on the walls. But we have moved past that now.

Before we set out to repair the original cracks, I looked up advice on the Internet. There is a lot, and much of it contradictory. So here is what works best for us, but bare in mind that we are not professionals. We have learned by our own mistakes and having to repair MANY cracks in plaster.

First you must determine what kind of crack it is. By this I mean, it is a small superficial crack? Is it a crack that was previously repaired? Or is it a crack where the plaster feels spongy and is separating from the lath?

Small Superficial Crack
These cracks aren't that serious, but it seems that the best way to deal with them is to scrape them out with a utility knife further before you repair them. When we initially started repairing cracks in the house, we were a little too intimidated to do this. Coincidentally, those are the cracks that have reappeared. If you just try to cover them with paint or joint compound, they will most likely return.

Once you have scraped them out further, you will feel as though you have probably made things worse, but in reality you will create a strong "scab" for this crack. Fill the interior with the mix-it-yourself joint compound. We have been using quick dry. These are much harder to use than the pre-mixed varieties of joint compound, but they are actually different. The kind that require you to mix actually have a chemical reaction and they form "crystals". They don't shrink as much as the pre-mixed kind and that is good news for repairing walls that are constantly flexing. The challenge is that most of these kinds of joint compounds dry pretty quickly, and for a novice, it is hard to work that quickly.

Once the crack is filled, stick the mesh tape to the crack. You can cut the tape to match a crack that is not straight (and most aren't). Since the joint compound dries pretty quickly, it might be best to have all this ready ahead of time. Smooth out the joint compound that had squeezed through the tape, and then spread a thin layer over the crack, just enough to hide the tape. You can try to feather the edges with you putty knife, but don't be too picky, since the joint compound dries too quick for perfection. Plus, you will sand later.

We usually wait a day for the compound to dry, which is really more than necessary, but ensures that even large holes and cracks are dry. Using a fine grit sand paper (preferably drywall sand paper, as it doesn't get clogged as easily), sand the crack as smooth as possible without revealing the mesh tape. If you sand too much off, you can add more compound over the crack. Beware, joint compound sands very easily and there will be more on the floor than the wall before you know it. Also be sure to wear a mask and cover anything that you don't want to be layered in white dust. A lot of our cracks required more than one coat to cover all the tape.

Previously Repaired Crack
If you have a crack that has been previously repaired, it will become obvious when you start to open it up and you will find excessive joint compound and sometimes even old mesh tape. In our house, the cracks were giant bulges in the wall. They hadn't always reappeared, but we felt that we could fix them a little better than the previous owners. Generally when you use the mesh tape, you won't see the crack again for a long time. However, these cracks are probably reappearing because they are evidence of your walls flexing at these "stress" points. Therefore, be forewarned that these cracks are signs of movement, though not necessarily a cause for concern. However, if you don't want to be repairing these cracks every few months, then repairing them well is important.

These cracks can be filled the same way that minor cracks are repaired, but you might find that a lot more plaster and old repair must be removed before you can start your own. If by the time you are done, you have a rather large hole in the wall, you must decide if you want to repair this with a lot of joint compound and tape, or if you want to use a drywall patch. If you decide on the former, then continue with the repair as stated above.

If these cracks continue to reoccur, it may be worth looking into a different repair compound other than joint compound. That is what we are familiar with, but I have read where other people have used vinyl spackling, plaster of Paris, and once on television, some sort of caulk. If we get a persistent crack, I will consider these compounds before repairing again.

Spongy Cracks
These cracks are a problem. If you can push on the plaster and there is give, then the plaster is separating from the lath. We actually had quite a few of these cracks in the hallway. One option for dealing with these cracks is to try to reattach the plaster to the lath with a screw. (Do not use nails, as they are hard to put in plaster and the pounding usually just exasperates the problem). This does work if it is a small area. However, we used a washer with the screw, because it often went through the plaster and just left yet another hole. Yet even a flat head screw sits enough away from the wall to leave a small bulge when you cover it.

My advice for these kinds of cracks, is to remove the plaster until you reach a point where it is no longer separating. Often this will require a drywall patch. If you are the type of person that wants perfect walls, that are not covered in an assortment of joint compound and drywall, then I would consult a professional. If you are like us, and just want walls that are smooth and usable, then check out our repairs in the closet and the hallway.

Hallway Repairs

We are not looking to be on the historic registry, so we just want a wall that is not riddled in cracks. Plus our budget does not lend itself to hiring professionals unless absolutely necessary.

When you have repaired the crack to you liking, you may want to texture the crack to appear like the surrounding walls. There are a lot of ways to do this, but for a simple texture like in our house, you can use a wet sponge with the pre-mixed joint compound (not the kind that dries quickly) and sponge it on. Different sponges with different textures will create a variety of results. If you don't like it, use a wet sponge to gently wipe it off. When the repair is all finished, prime it before painting.

So that is my advice for anyone repairing cracks in their plaster. There are a lot of website out there with instructions, but that is what has worked best for us. Under no circumstances paint over the crack! You will see that crack again in a matter of days.